Since coming to China, John has fallen in love with cycling. He bought a second-hand bike, with a loose chain, from a colleague and it became Silver to his Lone Ranger.
Even though he cycles to and from work everyday, he still likes nothing better than to zoom off for a ride in the evening or at the weekend, especially now Spring is well and truly here. No trip is too short or too long to go by bike.
Despite this love, he has been very lax about bicycle security. He says that this is because Wuxi people are generally honest, so it won’t get stolen. I wondered whether the real reason was that he didn’t like to keep his trusty friend in chains.
Yesterday the worst happened: He left home to go to the shops and there was no sign of his bike. Usually, it is parked immediately outside our apartment, next to my bike. My bike was still there (safely locked up), but it looked pretty lonely.
We searched everywhere in case the someone had just moved the bike. We even looked in the spooky basement of our building. The basement is a dusty, last resting place for every imaginable type of bike, but John’s wasn’t there. In the end, John came to accept his bike was gone and sadly set off for the shops on foot.
When he reached the security guards’ office at the gate of our area, he suddenly spotted his beloved bike. The guards had taken it in the night to give John a lesson in bicycle security. He muttered something about how they should have better things to do, but I noticed this morning his bike was safely secured.
The sun shone today and it really felt like Spring. John and I cycled to Lake Li to enjoy the good weather. Cycling around Wuxi is quite straightforward. Most of the cycle paths are good, although you do need to watch out for potholes and the occasional ebike rider travelling in the wrong direction. The lake looked lovely in the sunshine.
We returned from the excitement of Beijing to our chilly apartment in Wuxi; everywhere was still shut for the Spring Festival holidays and to top it all, we both caught colds. So, we decided we deserved a short break in a comfortable hotel in Suzhou.
We managed to find a special rate at the Pan Pacific hotel. This hotel appealed to us especially as the bathrooms had a separate shower and bathtub. We agreed that if the weather was bad, we could just take it turns to soak in the tub.
At the train station, I was pleased to be able to conduct the transaction entirely in Chinese. It might not sound like much, but 6 months ago, I didn’t really speak any Chinese at all. Now, I was able to ask for tickets departing on one day and coming back on another, at a specific time and on a specific type of train. I might never be fluent, but it is good to be understood.
Suzhou is on the Nanjing – Shanghai line and the ‘G’ trains are fast and efficient, travelling at up to 300 km/h. The system is also much more organised than in the UK. Each passenger has a seat allocated in a specific carriage. All passengers wait in the main station until about 10 min before departure time, then they are allowed onto the platform. Along the platform, there are numbers indicating which compartment stops where. This does away with the confusion about which end of the train you need (the trains are pretty long). Also, a note to Virgin Trains, they only feel the need to have one first class carriage, thus allowing more room for standard class.
The Pan Pacific hotel is at the southern end of Suzhou city centre. It is a relatively low rise hotel, built in traditional style. Our room was lovely with a balcony overlooking a fish pond. From the balcony we could see the pagoda in the Pan Men garden adjacent to hotel. Staying at the hotel allowed us free entry into the garden, so, as the sun was shining, we set off to explore.
Pan Men is a large garden in classical style. We climbed to the top of the pagoda, from where we had a panoramic view of the city. We then took a river boat trip. The wooden boats looked a bit like punts. Ours was powered by a stern looking oarswoman who started singing to us as we set off. Once we were out of sight of the ticket office, she suggested we might like to give her a tip in appreciation of her talents. She looked quite capable of casting us both overboard, so we thought it was best to comply.
That evening, we had a nice meal at a large restaurant nearby. Our meal was spoilt, slightly, by lots of chain smokers at the other tables (I nicknamed one of them ‘Smoky-Joe’ as he would start another cigarette as soon as he finished the previous one). There were even quite a few women smoking, which is unusual in China. I still find it hard to get used to the number of smokers here and how acceptable it is to smoke anywhere. I had forgotten how in the past after going to the pub in the UK, your clothes and jacket would stink the next day. Tobacco is really cheap here, to I don’t think it is something likely to change in the near future.
The next day we got a bus to the centre of the city and went to the Mingtown Cafe on Pingjiang Road for
an American breakfast. This kept us going long enough to walk up and down this lovely canal-side road with its interesting little shops and views. We then went south to look at the Twin Pagodas. Apparently, they were built by some grateful students in appreciation of their teacher. I could see John was getting some ideas, so we walked on to the Garden of the Master of the Nets.
Suzhou is understandably famous for its formal gardens. The Master of the Nets is one of the smaller ones, but is fascinating with its little rooms and pathways around a central pond. We had walked enough by now, so caught a taxi back to the hotel. We had dinner at the hotel and spent a lovely evening watching films in our nice warm room.
This morning, we woke up late, enjoyed a substantial breakfast and felt ready to return to Wuxi.
Last night there was a party at the hotel. There were about 100 people here enjoying mulled wine and locally brewed beer. We were able to stand on the roof terrace and watch the fireworks exploding from ever direction. It was incredible, as midnight approached, the fireworks intensified until you didn’t know where they would explode from next.
Some time after midnight, we thought we would go for a walk to see what was happening outside. The
streets looked like the aftermath of a riot, with paper strewn everywhere and smoke still rising. Groups of people were setting off firecrackers on the streets and pavements, with no concern for the cars parked nearby or traffic trying to pass.
We saw one girl of about 10 year old happily lobbing bangers across the pavement. The old year has well and truly been chased away, but I think there are still more fireworks to come over the next few days.
Today is Chinese New Year’s Eve. We woke up to another bright, sunny and cold day. After a hearty breakfast (the hotel has a breakfast menu with lots of unusual choices, all cooked fresh and served with coffee and juice), we decided to borrow some bicycles from the hotel and head for Tienanmen Square.
Due to the holidays, the roads are unusually quiet, so it was an easy ride to the square. On arrival, we discovered the Forbidden City had closed early for the day and National Museum and Mao’s mausoleum were both shut. It didn’t really matter as we were still able to stroll around, soak in the atmosphere and take some pictures in the sunshine.
Tienanmen Square would normally be crowed with tourists, both foreign and Chinese, as well as all sorts of hawkers and scammers. We felt lucky to be able to enjoy it in the relative calm. Cycling around the square, we were a little worried one of the many guards or police might stop us, but nobody seemed interested in the two wobbly laowai on their dusty bicycles.
By now we were getting peckish. Luckily we found a small family restaurant which served up some tasty food and jasmine tea. Typically, the restaurant didn’t have its own loo. I took the plunge and visited the public convenience over the road. On the positive side it was very clean, on the negative it was all squat loos, with no separate cubicles. Ah well, when in Beijing…
Our next stop was the Lama Temple via the excellent foreign language bookshop on Wangfujing Dajie. Unfortunately, by the time we reached the temple it had also closed to visitors. It was a good ride, though.
We cycled back through the hutongs to our hotel. The journey was becoming more hazardous as many firecrackers were being let off in the streets to chase out the old year. More than once, we had to stop and wait for a pile of fireworks to stop their volley before we could pass.
The volume and frequency of the fireworks will increase this evening and for the next seven days. We don’t expect to be able to get much sleep this evening. Luckily, the hotel is having a party so at least not being able to sleep should be fun.
After a good night’s sleep and a tasty breakfast this morning, we were ready to conquer the Great Wall. Our hotel had arranged a car and driver to take us to the wall and he was ready, waiting for us at 9.30. The Great Wall is pretty big (duh!) so there are many different sections you can visit. We had decided to go to the part at Mutianyu at 90 minutes drive from the centre of Beijing.
We were really lucky with the weather. It is quite cold, about -11°, but the sky was incredibly clear and blue. We bought tickets for the cable car up to the wall and then walked along as far as we could. The wall was unusually quiet today; I understand that sometimes it is unbearably busy. This was due to the Spring Festival. Many Beijingers come from outside the city so have gone home to be with their families. Most of the other people we saw along the wall were other foreigners.
About half way along we met a woman selling drinks and snacks. On our way back we were glad of a cup of tea to warm us up. She was a funny character, insisting she take our photo wearing a Chairman Mao style cap. She told us she was from Mongolia and her husband had set off to walk home for the new year.
The walk along the wall was really enjoyable, but quite hard going. The steps are steep in places and so difficult for those of us with short legs. The view was well worth it, though. So was the feeling of standing on one of the wonders of the world.
In order to get down from the wall, we decided to take a toboggan run. I wasn’t sure about it, but John persuaded me and it was actually really exciting, or at least not as terrifying as I thought it would be.
We are now back at the hotel, with tired legs, but looking forward to visiting Tienanmen Square tomorrow. Tomorrow evening, is a New Years Eve party at the hotel and we should be able to watch the fireworks from the roof terrace. Can’t wait!
We landed in Beijing at about 2pm this afternoon. Our flight was a little delayed, but not so much that it mattered. When checking in at Wuxi airport we saw a sign apologising for a flight that was delayed due to ‘company plan’. We were pleased that our airline didn’t plan too much of a delay for us.
We were glad we had arranged an airport pick up, because our hotel is in the middle of Beijing’s hutongs and I am sure it would have been a struggle to find it by ourselves. However, it is well worth finding. We are staying at the Orchid Hotel, a boutique hotel, sympathetically converted from an old building. Our bedroom is off the central courtyard. It is small, but has everything we need, including heating and cats. The hotel is great, it has a really cool feel to it and the owners are really happy to help with restaurant recommendations and other advice.
The temperature in Beijing is about -2°C, but we were expecting this so we have stocked up on warm
clothes. This afternoon we kept warm by walking up the steep stairs to the top of the Drum Tower. From the top we had a great view across the hutongs and beyond. The hutongs are traditional style Chinese low-rise buildings. In the distance we could see the skyscrapers of newer parts of the city, but they seemed a world away. After a while, some people started beating the enormous drums in the tower. Historicaly, the drums would have been used to mark standard time for the city.
After tentatively heading back down the steep staircase, we went in search of the lake we had seen in the distance. The lake was completely frozen and there are booths around it where you can hire ice skates or small ice bikes. It was fun to watch people sliding around and we have vowed to try it ourselves before we leave.
For dinner we went to a nearby Yunan restaurant called Hanay (as recommended by our hotelier). Yunan is a province in South West China bordering Laos, Vietnam and Burma. The food was delicious; quite spicy, but just right to warm us up. Our waitress spoke excellent English. She told me the green pu’er teaI was drinking was known to aid weight loss and would make me need to ‘answer the call of nature’ about three times tomorrow. Tomorrow we are going to the Great Wall, so I am now concerned about whether the facilities will be sufficient.
John and I have just returned from a brilliant weekend in Guangzhou to celebrate New Year. We stayed at the Victory Hotel on Shamian Island. Shamian Island is the old British/ French quarter of Guangzhou. Most of the buildings are in a European style and more than 100 years old. Shamian Island feels like a calm oasis in the middle of one of the biggest industrial cities in the world. Walking around the streets you can really feel what it would have been like all those years ago.
We had arranged an airport pick up with the hotel and by the time we got there, through the Friday afternoon rush hour, it was tea-time, so we set out to explore. We ended up at the Orient Express, a French style restaurant with some tables in old train carriages. The food was pretty good (I think John made the best choice with steak and chips, but my salade lyonnaise was also tasty). After dinner we walked to the Voyage 12 wine bar and had beer and cocktails. The weather was still so pleasant, we were able to drink them outside.
We had a good nights sleep in our nice, comfy hotel bed. It was so good to have a soft mattress. In China, mattresses tend to range from rock-hard to punishment-hard. You can even buy bamboo mattress toppers in case you a worried about too much comfort. Therefore a Western style mattress was a proper luxury. We followed this up with even more luxury – bacon for breakfast from the extensive buffet.
Now, we were all ready for some climbing. Guangzhou is currently home to the tallest man-made structure in China, the Canton Tower. I say currently, because it only opened in 2010 and other cities in China will no doubt see this as a challenge. We took the elevator all the way to the bubble tram at 450m (we decided against the stairs). The bubble tram is a bit like a Ferris wheel on its side circling the edge of the observation deck. There are the most amazing views of Guangzhou, although a bit hazy from the air pollution. The air quality in Guangzhou is pretty bad from all the factories and traffic.
After all this climbing, we were ready for lunch. We took a taxi back to the centre of the city and after a few false leads, ended up on the second floor of the Da Tong restaurant. At nearly 2pm, it was late for lunch, by Chinese standards, but the restaurant was still quite busy – always a good sign. We were delighted when they said they had an English menu, but when we came to order most of the dishes listed weren’t available, it seems the translated menu was a bit out of date. Never mind, through a combination of our limited Chinese and good luck we managed to order some delicious dim sum and pot of tea for two.
The tea was some of the best I have had in China. It was green tea with a real depth of flavour. I am sure this was enhanced by the special way the tea was brewed. Each tea served in the restaurant seemed to have its own style of china pot. Our
waitress brought it to us on a tray sitting over a bowl to catch any drips or overflow. On the tray was the tiny tea pot with tea leaves in it, a china jug and two tiny drinking cups. The waitress poured boiling water into the tea pot until it overflowed, then put the lid on, gave it a bit of a shake then poured it through a strainer into the jug which she used to the serve the tea. She left us with a kettle of boiling water so we could refill our jug as needed, but she seemed to take pride in making sure she always kept the jug filled herself.
After lunch we walked back to Shamian Island where we wandered around in the afternoon sunshine and had some fruit juice sitting outside the Rose Garden cafe. There were lots of people out and about enjoying the weather. After being in Wuxi for so long, it was strange to see so many foreigners everywhere. However, it is also really popular with local people. The surroundings are so lovely they often get used as a backdrop for wedding photos, so we saw quite a few young couples in full wedding gear being posed by photographers.
In the evening, we had booked to go on a cruise on the Pearl River. We bought the cheapest tickets (no dinner or anything included) and at first we were a bit disappointed when we saw our seats were in the middle of the room. However, we were able to leave our seats and stand on the deck outside. The view of the buildings against the night sky was amazing. The cruise took us as far as the Canton Tower which was lit with constantly changing colours. It was a spectacular sight and well worth the trip.
It was about 8.30pm when we left the boat, so time for tea (isn’t it always nearly some mealtime or other). On the way to the pier we had noticed a restaurant called Hong Xing, so we decided to walk
back there to eat. The restaurant specialised in seafood, Guangzhou style. The entrance was full of fish tanks containing every kind of fish or shellfish you can think of. There were oysters as big as your head and lobsters bigger than a cat. To order, your waitress walked around the tanks and noted down your preference. We were a bit restrained and decided to order the conventional way, which means we did miss out on the water beetles and snakes. However, we did get some excellent food, in a similar style to Chinese food at home, but 10 times better.
The goose with yellow plum sauce had obviously been roasted for a long time and was really juicy, my favourite though was a dish of green beans, beef and salmon. The beef was really tender, but the beans were crunchy and had soaked up the sauce – mmm. I must stop writing about food, I end up drooling on my keyboard. The meal was washed down with some more tea and came to £10 per head altogether. What a bargain.
Some more walking was needed after dinner, so we set off along the river bank towards our hotel; a walk of about a mile and a half. Lots of people were out and about and the riverbank felt a bit like a seaside promenade. Roller skates are available to hire and we were amused to see groups of young people zooming about in trains. Some were obviously more used to skating than others.
Back on the Island (which by now felt like home), we thought we had better go to a bar as it was New Year’s Eve and all. However, after one beer we realised there was still a long way to go until midnight and we would rather be tucked up in our comfy bed. So we went back to our hotel and watched the celebrations on the telly. New Years Eve isn’t really a big deal in China as the Spring Festival is just around the corner, so the fireworks were a bit muted. I think in a couple of weeks we will find out what fireworks can sound like.
The next morning we were up early for breakfast (a light one for me this time) and then to catch our flight back to Wuxi. Wuxi certainly feels chilly after Guangzhou.
On Wednesday evening, John and I went with Mark and Yi Ling to a Beijing (Peking) Duck restaurant in Wuxi’s Canal Park area. The restaurant was really busy, unsurprising really because the food was delicious.
As well as the whole roast duck we ordered some vegetables and sour soup which were pretty good, but the duck was the star. The whole roasted duck is brought to your table by a chef who carves it for you. And, yes, it is served with pancakes, spring onion and plum sauce. It was a bit pricey (£7 per head including drinks), but well worth it.
We are off to Beijing in January, so it will be interesting to see how authentic the Wuxi restaurant is.
The last couple of days have been lovely, crisp Autumn days. It has been cold enough that you need to wear a jacket or jumper when outside, but perfect weather for wandering about.
On Sunday, John and I wandered down to the city centre to find the street where all the tailors shops are. We managed to find it and we are quite excited about the idea of getting some trousers for John. If that works out well, I might even have something made for me – but I will let John be the guinea pig.
Also on Sunday, we visited a restaurant called Provance. We are hoping that they will be able to help in our quest for Christmas turkey. We met the head chef, who was really helpful and apparently knows John’s boss well. Maybe we will get a discount! He has promised to email menus to us, so we are keeping our fingers crossed.
During our walk, we went through an open air street market selling clothes, scarves and general gifty things. John bought a dancing donkey as a prize for a school photographic competition. I forgot to get a photo of it, but when it dances it looks and sounds a bit like Lady Gaga. As we are used to shopping in the UK, it is hard haggling. John managed to get the stall holder down from 39 yuan to 35 (about £3.50) for the donkey, but the stall holder accepted a bit too quickly. Then the next customer started at 30 yuan. Boo!